Back when I started quilting, I had a book from Mary Ellen Hopkins entitled "It's OK if you Sit on My Quilt Book". In this book she introduced the quilting world to connector corners. I think this may have been one of the techniques that revolutionized modern day quilting. Over the years I have heard a number of names for the technique including "cheater corner" and "folded corner".
The technique refers to a method of adding triangles to a quilt block. It is frequently the suggested method for creating snowball blocks, square within a square units and flying geese units. Although I've used the technique over the years, I found that I would have some fabric slippage or I would stretch the fabric in the pressing process -- resulting in less than perfect results.
A couple of years ago I was introduced to the Perfect Corner Ruler™. It is built off the folded corner concept. However this variation on the technique gets rid of some of the challenges with folded corners.
The Perfect Corner Method™ and Ruler™ were both developed by
Ruthanna Grihalva, Forever In Stitches, LLC.
Using the Perfect Corner Ruler
I used the Perfect Corner ruler in my Tad, Ted and Theodore Bowtie pattern. The example below is for the "Theodore" unit in this pattern.
Using the ruler, draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of the base piece of fabric (this is the piece the corner will be added to). The measurement to use for this line is exactly the same as your folded corner measurement. (For the Theodore unit this is 2".)
Cut corners. The square for these corners will be 3/4" greater than the folded corner square. For Theodore this was 2-3/4" x 2-3/4". Cut the square once on the diagonal for two corner pieces.
Using the Corner Pop Ruler
Approximately six months ago Deb Tucker came out with her version of a "folded corner" ruler. Corner Pop™ from Studio 180 Design is used for folded corner units. Using this tool you will trim rather than mark, add an oversized replacement triangle and then square everything to a perfect size.
This tool is featured in my latest pattern - Ferris Wheel. This pattern would have traditionally called for a 2 inch folded corner. Here is how I used the Corner Pop tool.
Use the 1 1/2″ Cut Away lines on the Corner Pop™ to cut one corner on a half-square triangle unit.
The square for these corners will be 3/4" greater than the folded corner square. (For this unit, the square is 2-3/4" x 2-3/4".) Cut each corner squre once on the diagonal to create two half-square triangles.
With the half square triangle unit on top, sew (using an accurate 1/4″ seam) the corner triangle to the half square triangle.
Folded Corner Poll
Inquiring minds what to know....what methods you have tried -- and if you have tried multiple methods, which one do you prefer. Poll selections are confidential.
Featured Pattern - Ferris Wheel
When going to the fair as a child, the ferris wheel was my favorite ride. I loved the view at the top and enjoyed colorful lights late at night. This quilt can be made with 8 fabrics or the medium and dark fabrics may be made from scraps. If made from scraps, Charms work for the Dark; and Fat Eighths or Fat Quarters for Medium 1 and 2.
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When using a standard ruler, I suggest adding additional lines to aid in fabric placement and cutting. I like to mark these lines with a fine point Sharpie marker. Since a Sharpie make “permanent” marks, I start by lining my ruler with Invisigrip. Invisigrip™ is a clear, non-slip material that is applied to rulers and templates to prevent rulers from slipping when rotary cutting. It is made by Omnigrid®.
Featured Quilt - Modern Maze
Create your own maze with these asymmetrical blocks. There are endless rotation possibilities. The quilt may be completed with four fabrics or may be made from scraps (or with charm packs).
Recommended (optional) Tools:
Step 9 – Combine beginning and end of binding.
Here is my tip for this step. Leave about a four inch tail before starting to stitch down the binding. Start stitching in the middle of one of the sides. When you are about eight inches from the start, lay the binding flat and mark the point the end matches the start of the binding. Also draw a short mark that shows the “angle direction” of the starting piece.
Open the binding and match the 45 degree angle on a ruler with the bottom of the binding. The pencil mark should be at the 3/8 inch mark on the ruler. (Technically this should be ½ inch – but because we are working with bias, I have found more success making it a bit smaller.) Cut the 45 degree angle.
Now sew the start and finish pieces together with ¼ inch seam. You should now be able to sew the continuous binding down with no gaps or extra bulk.
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